In Quebec City

 

We have really enjoyed our stay of 4 nights in Quebec City. We are in a self catering apartment built in 19th century in the high part of the old town inside the city walls known as le haute ville. A terrific location within walking distance to most attractions. The old town is divided into two main sections, the high part and the low part or basse ville. Navigating between the two requires some stamina and some fortitude, particularly when you're told that the staircase between the two is called the Break-your-neck stairs, so named because of the fate of many sailors trying to get back down to their ships after a night of wine and debauchery.

 

A walking tour on the first day allowed us to get our bearings and learn lots about the history of this area and Canada generally. As with many towns throughout Europe, Quebec City is set well up above the river using the natural geography to assist defence. Quebec was originally settled by the Frenchman, Samuel de Champlain in 1608. The site was chosen as it was the narrowest point of the St Lawrence river and cannons strategically placed on both sides could bombard any invaders. In 1759 the French were defeated by the British in a final battle that lasted less than 30 minutes. Both leaders, James Wolfe and Marquis de Montcalm, died in this battle. Following that victory all the French settlements from New Orleans up to Quebec and beyond became British, which changed the face of North America and the future world. It was not until 1867 that Canada became a country in its own right.

A program sponsored by Louis XIV saw 800 young women between 12-25 emigrate to Quebec and Montreal to improve the gender balance and foster marriage and family formation. They were known as the King's Daughters. Some well known "celebrities" descending from such women are Hilary Clinton, Angelina Jolie, Madonna and Lady Gaga.

The Québécois have retained their French language and it is more commonly spoken than English. They are very friendly welcoming people who are tolerant of outsiders attempting to speak French and only getting it right some of the time. Fran's attempts in French usually evoked the question "do you speak English?"

Fran celebrated a birthday on Sunday and we enjoyed an aperitif in Bar 1608 and dinner at Le Champlain, both located in the magnificent Chateau de Frontenac which was built as a hotel.

 

 

A guided tour of Parliament House was very interesting. Their chambers are decorated in green and red like ours, but Quebec province no longer has an upper house. The gardens were beautifully kept including vegetable plots in prime position at the front with a sign which read nourriture a partager which means food to share. Didn't see anyone grabbing a tomato or a sprig of parsley for their evening salad while we were there!

We have been surprised at the day time temperatures whuch have been hovering around 14 degrees.....very cold for Queenslanders......which again had us rugged up in coats, scarves and hats, well Fran was anyway. Guess if we're here to see the autumn colours, those temperatures are necessary.

We are back on the train tomorrow at lunch time to Montreal for one more night, before heading into the US and collecting our hire car at Burlington airport in Vermont. Fran has downloaded an app called leaf peepr which tracks the progress of the colours in all the regions of North America. They're "on the turn" but we suspect we may be a little too early to see them in their full splendour.

 

Adrian making an impression!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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